Author: persuader

Perched at 7,000 ft in the Kumaon Himalayas, this lodge is the newest addition to the Shakti portfolio, cementing two decades of visionary mountain hospitality

Getting to Shakti Prana requires commitment. From Delhi, the journey to the hotel begins with a short domestic flight to Pantnagar, followed by nearly six hours of winding mountain roads climbing steadily through the foothills of Uttarakhand, the first of several drives across a five- to seven-night programme that takes in traditional village stays on either side of Shakit Prana itself.

Founded by Jamshyd Sethna over two decades ago, hospitality group Shakti Himalaya pioneered a form of luxury travel in the Indian Himalayas that was intimate and community-rooted, built around private walking journeys between restored traditional village houses in three distinct regions: Ladakh, Sikkim and Kumaon. Its most celebrated property, Shakti 360 Leti, helped define what mountain hospitality could look like when it opened 16 years ago, before being dismantled stone by stone in March 2024. Those same stones, carried by mule train 2,700 ft up a steep goat path, now form Shakti Prana, the brand’s newest and most ambitious lodge, with breathtaking views of the Nanda Devi and Panchachuli ranges.

What’s on your doorstep?

The walking around Shakti Prana is among the finest in the Kumaon region, and the beauty of the Shakti approach is that there is not a prescriptive programme. Each morning, over breakfast, you discuss the day’s route with your private guide – the distance, the terrain, the pace – and the plan is built around you, extending to picnic breakfasts on a bed of pine needles, arranged simply because it was mentioned the evening before. The standout is the Jhandi Dhaar ridgeline climb, a gradual ascent along a narrow pagdandi, the local word for a footpath, that follows the south-eastern ridgeline above the lodge through cedar and pine forests to open ridgetops with sweeping views across the Great Himalayan Range and the Ramganga river valley far below.

Herds of goats, cows and sheep graze the upper slopes, moving unhurriedly across the hillside. For those wanting something more demanding, the Ramganga river walk descends steeply through jungle and village houses to the river itself, though the steep climb back up is best suited to the more agile and fit. The circuit runs from early October to the end of April, the autumn months offering lush scenery and clear skies, with winter bringing the sharpest mountain views.

Who’s behind the design?

The lodge’s architecture is the work of Sam Barclay of Case Designs, who had previously served as site manager on the Leti project and brought an intimate understanding of both the logistics in such a remote area and the character of the landscape, resulting in a lodge deeply rooted in its setting. Seven suites – six single-bedroom and one two-bedroom – are arranged across the hillside, built from stone and glass, their large floor-to-ceiling windows framing uninterrupted views of the Nanda Devi and Panchachuli ranges.

Defined by stone, timber and copper, the interiors are warm and pared back with considered furnishings and local, textured fabrics. At 7,000 ft, bordering Nepal and Tibet, with solar power providing the entire electricity supply and spring water used for drinking throughout, the lodge operates lightly amid its environment.

The room to book

All suites largely follow the same layout, so the choice comes down to position on the hillside. Each has its own perspective, and opens into a cosy sitting room anchored by a wood-burning fire, with an Eames-style lounge chair and built-in seating that takes in both the flames and the views. From here, the bedroom is positioned to face the mountains directly, while the bathroom sits to the rear, a small atrium flooding it with natural light. The room to book is number five, which sits nudged against the forest, and while all have their own private terrace, here it sits to the side, adding an extra run of windows and considerably more light to the room, a bonus for early risers given that the blinds are sheer.

No doubt the best feature of the room is the service button by the bed. Press it and whatever has been arranged with the team arrives within minutes, from morning tea as the sun streams through those windows, to a glass of wine best sipped on the terrace next to the firepit at sunset. The day ends as well as it begins; return to your room after dinner to find the fire lit and a hot water bottle tucked between the sheets.

Staying for drinks and dinner?

The food at Prana is exceptional. Unlike many remote lodges, from Africa to Argentina, this one doesn’t try too hard. The cooking here – served family-style – is honest, rooted in what the surrounding villages and the lodge’s own herb and vegetable gardens produce. Leading the kitchen is Yeshi Lama, Indian-born with Tibetan heritage, whose cooking spans local Kumaoni dishes, broader Indian favourites like butter chicken, Burmese khowsuey – noodles in a coconut curry broth – and Nepali momos, a reminder of just how fluid the cultural borders are at this altitude.

Breakfast is usually Western, with fresh juice, granola and yogurt, alongside egg dishes cooked to order, but the kitchen is open to requests, among them spiced potato dosas, crispy and freshly made. After a long hike, lunch hits the spot with a good salad, mushroom pie or grilled chicken, while pre-dinner drinks on the terrace or by the living room fire arrive with canapés, from lamb kebabs to samosas, that set the tone for the evening ahead.

Where to switch off

At Prana, switching off requires very little effort. The nature, the setting and the peacefulness of the landscape are enough on their own, aided by the hikes, the village walks, and long hours spent reading on your private terrace. In between, you might make use of a yoga space, as well as a sauna and a deep-set bathtub that can be run hot or cold depending on your inclination, both positioned to look out over the hillside. Mobile signal is non-existent at the first village stop and limited at Prana itself, which only adds to the allure.

The verdict

Shakti Prana is, no doubt, one of the most remarkable properties to open in the Himalaya in years, and the Kumaon circuit that leads to it is among the most genuinely immersive travel experiences in India. The design is considered, the hospitality is warm and deeply personal, and the landscape is breathtaking. The caveat is that none of this comes easily. The journey from Delhi is long, the roads are winding, and the final approach is on foot. For those who see the remoteness as part of what makes an experience meaningful, Shakti Prana exceeds every expectation.